Summer Pruning of Roses

Roses, the queen of flowers, are one of summers highlights with their large, bright and scented flowers of all shapes, sizes and forms.

Unfortunately the flowers don't last as long as we would like and we have to encourage more growth and flower buds throughout the summer to have  a continuous  supply of lovely flowers.

Here is how we do that.

• When each flower has finished prune off the dead head back to the next flowering bud.
• Usually there are a number of flowers on each stem so when the last flower has finished cut back the flowering stem to the first five leaflet leaf down the stem.
• Once cut at this point a new flowering stem will grow to produce flowers about 4-5 weeks later.
• Repeat this as the early rose flowers finish.
• Repeat this process throughout the summer and autumn to keep rejuvenating the rose bush and produce more flowers.
• At times the bush may look a little  out of shape and  this can be corrected by pruning some stems a little harder than the first five leaf.
• If there is any dieback or dying stems these should be removed when identified.

This seems like a lot of work but if you do a little each week it only takes a few minutes.

Spraying deciduous shrubs, fruit trees and roses after pruning

Protecting our plants from invasive pets and diseases is far better than trying to fix the problem later.


Frequently asked questions

How do I dispose of prunings?

• After pruning pick up all the pieces you have cut off and all the dead leaves. These can be placed into the recycling bins
• Remove any old mummified fruit and place in the green waste. Don't put it into your own compost heap it probably wont get hot enough to kill and pests and diseases that may be in the fruits.

What do I spray with after pruning deciduous shrubs, fruit trees and roses?
There are two products we can use, both safe. I prefer to use them separately

All seasons spraying oil. 

• Always read the directions on the bottle
• This is one of the best products on the market and one of the easiest to use.
• Measure out the quantity required for your sprayer and fill with water and apply.
• Throughly cover the remaining stems on the shrub to ensure every part of the plant is covered.
• You might want to repeat this twice before spring growth occurs.
• Use this link to find out more All Seasons Spraying oil

Copper oxychloride

• Always read the directions
• Controls a wide range of fungal and bacterial diseases on fruit, vegetables and ornamentals.
• This is a powder so take care and mix according to the directions on the packet.
• Throughly spray the plants getting to every part of the plant.
• You can spray this twice  if necessary
• Use this link to find out more Copper oxychloride

Topiary Art

By Alan Jolliffe


Topiary, is the art of pruning, clipping and cutting shrubs and small trees into ornamental or fantastic shapes. It takes its name from the Roman ars topiaria (ornamental gardening) as practiced in the 1st Century AD or even earlier. Topiary reached its greatest popularity in England in the 16th & 17th Centuries. In recent years it has again become very popular.

Topiary usually looks better in a formal garden with older buildings in the background. This however is not the case today where we find topiary being used in many imaginative ways.

When planning a topiary or topiary garden keep it simple as simple designs often look better. Many of the more elaborate shapes take many years to achieve. Consider different viewing angles allowing space in front and behind. All topiary must have maximum sunlight to produce regular vigorous growth necessary for shaping to occur. Ideally they should be placed in a level, sheltered position protected from the wind.

Topiary can come in many different forms. Pruning plants into hedge shapes is one of the common forms of topiary. Other shapes can be in the form of animals, letters or symbol. The simpler the design the more quickly it will establish and the easier it will be to maintain.

The best plants for topiary usually have smallish leaves and compact habit of growth, with a steady controlled growth rate being essential. One of the best is the Buxus sempervirens the English Box. This plant is ideal because of its very slow, compact growth, holding its shape for long periods of time.

Regular trimming and training of the plant is required to create and maintain the shape. If the shape is being held together by wire and wire netting make sure that the main stems are in the right place before trimming. Use clean, sharp tools for a perfect finish.

The Art and Science of Pruning

By Alan Jolliffe

Pruning is the art of training plants. Of all the jobs in the garden nothing causes so much controversy and worry as pruning. However pruning is one of those garden arts which must be practiced - and practice makes perfect.                                          
Pruning is both an art and science, but now there is a lot more science than art. It is becoming a lost art and needs to be revived. Art refers to the final shape of the shrub –how it looks, its balance and its height in relation to plants around it. The science is where to make the cut, how much to take off and prediction of the reaction the plant will have to the removal of a branch.

We prune to grow large flowers, to train the plant for its position, to remove the dead and diseased wood, to ensure maximum air and sunlight reach all parts of the plant and to show off the best features of the plant in the garden. Pruning is your best guess at the time based on your knowledge and experience. After pruning take time out to observe the behaviour of the plants as they react to the pruning. Observe things like, where do the new shoots come from? How long do they take to appear? Are they strong or weak?

The first priority is to make sure your pruning tools are clean and sharp. The basic tools are secateurs and a hand pruning saw. Secateurs are used to cut branches up to 20mm in diameter after that you can use a saw without doing any harm. 

Always start pruning from the top down. Starting at the top allows you to shape the plant easily. You can see the shrub and get a much better idea of how it will look when finished. Look for what I call the 'inner shape'. On many shrubs it is possible to see an outline of foliage smaller than the existing shrub. Removal of the foliage back to this shape is a relatively easy matter. 

One of the hardest things to do is to hide the pruning cut. The visual impact of cuts can be lessened by changing the angle and position of the cut. Always make the cut beside an existing side shoot or bud so the end does not look like it has been cut off. Try to face the cuts upwards, towards the centre of the plant or towards the back of the border. If in doubt don't cut back to far as you cannot put the plant pieces back on the plant. It is just as easy to come back and take some more material off later.

The easiest and most rewarding pruning anyone can do is to pick the flowers for indoor display or to give away. This way flowers can be appreciated in the garden and inside the house. Cutting flowers off at the correct pruning position will save additional pruning time later on.

Many people are confused about the time to prune many plants. A simple rule is this; "Prune After Flowering". There is no need to remember when plants need pruning. Pruning after flowering means that dead flowers are removed, unwanted fruit is not produced and new shoots are encouraged to grow. 

Not all plants require pruning and the same plant growing in different places may require different pruning to achieve the required garden shape. Always consider the individual, plant and its character and its position in the garden. If you do not like pruning then choose plants that don't require pruning.

Pruning is not a once a year job. Don't be fooled by the fact that some other people use pruning as an excuse for a mid-winter cleanup. Think of the plants - they are individuals too and require individual treatment.

The only way to become a competent at pruning is to practice pruning, observe the results, correct your techniques and practice again. Remember practice makes perfect.

The Art and Science of Pleaching

Pleaching - the word comes from an old French term meaning "to braid" or "interweave" - is a technique is which grafting, plant training, pruning, hedging and topiary come together to allow gardeners to weave with live trees.


The best trees for pleaching are Limes (Tilia) hornbeam, willow, whitethorn and laburnum.

For pleaching hedges, trees are planted about two metres apart in a line and allowed to grow until they are firmly established. Cut the tops off all at the same height. This height is about the height you want the hedge to be. Make a connecting frame of wires along which new growth can be trained until the branches interweave. (It will take a few years). Remove all shoots that grow out of line. Create all sorts of effects from a thick hedge raised on stilts to a green tunnel. 

Another form of pleaching is to tie the shoots to a frame like a window, circle, heart and alien they reach the top of the frame graft them together into a single stem. The frames can be removed after a few years leaving the shaped gaps in the trees.

A third form is using single trees and weaving them in to strangely shaped objects.

The fashion of pleaching goes back to 17th Century. Lime trees were planted in rows quite close together and when they were sturdy in the ground they were topped to encourage side branches to grow. Frames and wires were used to train and weave branches into hedges, arches or tunnels. The intertwining of branches eventually grafted themselves together and as they grow each year become further entwined. Gradually the growing flowing shapes took places.

There are some copies of famous pleached features appearing in NZ eg Pleached hedge at Lincoln University and Laburnum tunnel at Larnach Castle in Dunedin.
Pleaching is a time consuming but rewarding garden art form. It is time consuming in the amount of work required to prepare and train young shoots and also in the number of years until a shape is formed and is at its best. 

By Alan Jolliffe

How to prune a grape vine

Grape vines are easy to prune by following some simple guidelines. Wait untilall the leaves have fallen off the vine so you can see the all the stems.

Identify the main stems that provide the shape and structure of the grape vine. If these stems need to be extended then ensure the extensions are clearly identified so they are not cut off during pruning. If possible train them where you want them to go before pruning.

Once the main structure has been identified remove all the side stems back to about 25 – 50mm from the main stem. The criterion for the length is dictated by the need to have two new buds available to grow from the base of each stem.

Remove all the growth back to the main structure of the vine.

How to prune lemon trees

Many questions are asked about pruning lemon trees especially if it has become to large for the space.

The answer is simple. In spring when the fruit is ripe always pick the fruit with a pair of secateurs. Harvest the fruit by cutting the small branch that the fruit is on. Cut it back to the nest branch or leaf. This way means that each time you pick a lemon throughout the summer a small piece of the tree will be removed. Later in the summer it will be possible to remove some longer branches as there will be less fruit in the tree.

Occasionally there will be longer branches to remove. Cut these back to the junction of another branch to fit the shape of the tree required.

How to Prune roses

Here are some simple steps to make it easier and quicker.

1.  Remove all the dead and dying branches.

2.  Remove all the crossing branches. (These grow from one side of the bush to the other.)

3.    Remove oldest wood (easily identified by the grey corky bark).

4.    Aim to have three to five strong young stems remaining - and shorten these back to about 40 - 50cm. Make sure there is an outward facing bud at the top of the shortened stem.

Pruning and training of garden shrubs

By Alan Jolliffe

Pruning is the art of training plants. Pruning is not an end in itself. Pruning is a stimulus for desirable plant growth.

Introduction.

Very few publications on pruning mention the relationship between pruning and training when explaining how to prune all types of plants, particularly of garden shrubs. This relationship is vital and must be well understood by gardeners, unfortunately it is not. Often pruning and training is not well practiced in both public and private gardens. However pruning, and therefore training, is one of those garden arts which must be practiced - and practice makes perfect.

Pruning is both an art and science, but there is now a lot more science than art and that is not a good thing. Pruning is becoming a lost art and it needs to be revived before it is lost altogether. The training of young plants is more important than the control of old plants or the regeneration of old plants. Young plants are very easily trained from the time they are planted out in the garden.

Of all the jobs in the garden nothing causes so much controversy and worry as does pruning.

Why do we prune?

To grow large blooms for exhibition or fun using all the plant's vigor.

To train the plant to best suit the position we planted it in.

To remove the dead and diseased wood from the plant.

To keep the plant in proportion for the position in which it is growing.

To ensure maximum air and sunlight reach all parts of the plant.

To enable the best features of the plant to be shown off in the garden.

Tools of the trade.

The first priority is to make sure your pruning tools are clean and sharp. The basic tools are secateurs and a hand pruning saw. Loppers are alright but can be an unnecessary expense. Secateurs are used to cut branches up to 20mm in diameter after that you can use a saw without doing any harm to the branch. A hand saw can cut quite large diameter branches without difficulty. In fact far to many people use a chainsaw when they do not have to and a chainsaw is very dangerous in these situations. They are also slower by the time you get them started and make the cut, a handsaw is faster and better exercise!

Starting to prune.

Always start pruning from the top down. One of the most common mistakes is to remove the weaker shoots at the bottom of the shrub thus creating a clear stem sometimes many centimeters off the ground. (These are then 'standard' shrubs). Starting at the top allows you to shape the plant more easily. You can see the plant and get a much better idea of the shrub when finished.

Look for what I call the 'inner shape'. On many shrubs it is possible to see an outline of foliage smaller than the existing shrub. Removal of the foliage back to this shape is then a relatively easy matter. It is the identification of the inner shape that allows you, the artist and gardener, to quickly and easily complete the pruning of any tree or shrub. You will know what you are aiming to achieve and that makes the task easier.

Once cut you cannot put the plant pieces back on the plant so don't cut back to far. It is just as easy to come back and take some more material off rather than be disappointed.

Hiding pruning cuts.

One of the hardest things to do is to hide the pruning cut. Impossible? Well maybe. The visual impact of cuts can be lessened dramatically by changing the angle of the cut and the position of the cut. If possible always make the cut beside an existing side shoot so the end does not look like it has been cut off. Try to face the cuts upwards or towards the centre of the plant or towards the back of the border.

Pick those flowers.

The easiest and most rewarding pruning anyone can do is to pick the flowers for indoor display or to give away. This way flowers can be appreciated in the garden and inside the house. Cutting flowers off at the correct pruning position will save additional pruning time later on.

Pruning times.

Confusion often reins about the time to prune many plants. A simple rule is this; "Prune after Flowering". There is no need to remember which plants need pruning in which months. Pruning after flowering means that dead flowers are removed, unwanted fruit is not produced and new shoots are encouraged to grow. Spring flowering plants  are a good example because it is easy to see how this  is applied. Similarly with summer flowering plants.

With plants that are tender and likely to be frosted over winter just consider the dormant period of winter as a "short" period. Fuchsias, for example, flower in late summer, are frost tender in winter, and make growth in spring. During the dormant period of winter no growth takes place. Therefore to prune in spring does not effect the growth of the plant. The rule therefore still applies "prune after flowering".

Pruning after flowering allows the plant to take the longest possible time to lay down new shoots and buds for the next flowering season.

Summer pruning.

Most of the training will occur in the summer not the winter. Summer pruning and training requires care and knowledge. Young vigorous growth can be removed to encourage branching at a lower height  in the same season. It may be possible to prune the same shoots twice or even tree times during the summer. This encourages the plant to mature earlier and at a smaller size, producing flowers and fruit earlier in its life.

Root pruning.

Root pruning is not practiced very much. It can be a very effective way to slow down growth of very vigorous plants.

No pruning.

Not all plants require pruning and the same plant growing in different places may require different pruning to achieve the required garden shape. Always consider the individual, plant and its character and its position in the garden.

If you do not like pruning then choose plants that don't require pruning.

Final Advice

Pruning is not a once a year job. People often regard pruning as a once a year activity. Don't be fooled by the fact that some other people use pruning as an excuse  for a mid-winter or spring cleanup. Think of the plants - they are individuals too and require individual treatment.

The only way to become a competent pruner is to practice pruning, observe the results, and correct your techniques and practice. Remember practice makes perfect.

When to prune shrubs

By Alan Jolliffe

Pruning time depends on the flowering season of the shrubs. The method of pruning depends upon whether the flower is borne on the new of the old wood. For pruning purposes, shrubs can be grouped in six classes:

1 For shrubs where the new shoots (those of the current year) bear the flowers, pruning should be done at any time in winter as the flowers usually arrive in summer or early autumn. The shoots of the previous year are pruned hard back to the structural branches of the shrub or even ground level. Sufficient old wood (it must not be too old) must be left in to form a structure to carry the new growth. This does not apply to shrubs that send up new wood directly from the ground level.

2 Where the plants flower on the wood made during the previous summer, pruning is done directly after flowering, as it is vital to give the plants as much time as possible to form and ripen new wood before winter. This is the wood flowers will be borne on the next spring. Some earlier flowering plants may be thinned, the old flowering shoots removed and pruned sufficiently to keep them tidy and trim.

3 The third group consists of those shrubs that flower in spring and onwards through the summer on the wood produced during the previous growing season.  These shrubs start to make much of their new wood before the flowers fade. Much of this new growth would have to be cut away with the old wood if the pruning were left until after the flowering season. Shrubs of this group should have the oldest wood cut right from the base early in the autumn. This will give the new wood a complete growing season in which to develop. When a shrub is pruned in this way, it will sometimes make so much young growth that a thinning out of this new wood may be necessary during the summer.

4 This group comprises shrubs whose blossom is borne on wood over two years old, or on short "spurs" from it. With this group of plants very little pruning is needed in the ordinary way, but the young growth must be cut back annually in winter to within 75mm of the old wood. Very old wood and weak growths should be cut out annually.

5 There is another group that consists of plants that throw up vigorous young growth direct from the roots. Some of this class flower best on the old wood, and most of the young growth must be cut away annually. But where the best flowers are borne on the young wood, and in cases where the plants are grown for their foliage or coloured stems rather than for bloom, they should be cut down almost to the ground each year.

6 The last group is composed of slow-growing shrubs that need no pruning. They may need light pruning to develop a nice shape but once mature they will require no pruning except for occasional thinning when overcrowded, or trimming should any of the branches become straggly.

Sometimes when a shrub has been in the same position for several years, the wood becomes thin and weak, and blossom is poor and scarce. Should this happen cut the old wood out and the newer wood hard back. Do not cut out all the old branches at once, remove an entire branch at a time, one every year in late spring.