Thursday, May 19, 2011

Sawcut Gorge - a fabulous place to visit



For more pictures go to my Facebook page


Want a wonderful adventure filled walk with wet feet? This is it.

Getting there is a little bit of an adventure and a very nice trip. Turn off State Highway 1 on the north side of the Waima River Bridge 55 km south of Blenheim. Sitting on top of a large tank is an old bicycle on top of a water tanks advertising Peddlers Lodge? Drive along this road past the well tended grape vines, including St Clair Sawcut vineyard. Continue on up the well maintained shingle road which follows the river and then winds it's way up the hillsides offering fantastic views of the valley below.

After opening and closing a few farm gates you reach the last farm, Isolation (an apt name) where on the last gate you find instructions on car parking and an invitation to complete the visitor’s book on the veranda of the house. Those with four wheel drive vehicles can drive down to the river, others have to walk.

After examining the information board and map we headed upstream for one and half hours and tried to keep our feet dry but it soon became apparent that to get there we had to cross and recross the river by walking through ankle deep water to keep to the marked track.

Walking along the rivers edge, climbing up the banks and walking on narrow tracks, boulder clambering or walking in the river this is just a delightful walk.
Starting out with small river stones which gradually got bigger the further upstream you travel until the boulders are about two metres tall.

Finally after just over one hour out of the trees comes a sign saying "Isolation Hut" and a track heading uphill. We went straight on for about 10minutes and the turned hard left up a very narrow gorge and about 20 minutes in we arrived at the Sawcut Gorge.

This ultra narrow gorge cut into the limestone somehow maybe even an earthquake caused it as major fault lines lie in this area. Walking through the narrow gorge in ankle deep water added to the sense of occasion. Out the other side into a narrow gorge clothed in native plants and a nice meandering stream.

Moving on up about ten minutes there is another gorge this one not so narrow. After that it is about. Ten minutes to Isolation Hut.

Returning to the car is all downhill. Following the large triangle markers this time we took the track to the Isolation Hut sign turnoff before heading down stream for an hour or more to the car. Visitors have made it a little easier by creating small cairns to mark the easiest way down the stream.

After signing out at the house and a quick word with the friendly farmer we were on our way along the. Narrow. Shingle road to State Highway One and a continued trip the Blenheim.

This great walk is well worth the extra effort of putting on a pair of boots, sloshing through the river, climbing over large boulders and generally having a good time in lovely pristine surroundings. Don't think you will be alone this walk is becoming more popular with about ten different parties walking into the gorge on a typical weekend day.




Tuesday, May 17, 2011

Enhancing outdoor wooden furniture



Outdoor furniture needs to be looked after to ensure a long life and retain it's colour and shape.

It is good to do this in late autumn to provide some protection of the timber through the harsh winter climate. Oiling the timber with the recommended furniture oil for the timber to protect and enhance your outdoor furniture is the quickest and easiest way to do this.

Many of these oils recommend using a cloth to apply but using a nice fine clean paint brush is quite effective. Do not put to much on at one time and spread it out evenly over the timber surface.

Before applying use a cloth to clean the cobwebs and dirt off to enable the oil to provide a good finish. If really dirty wash down with  warm water first and leave to dry.

Don't forget to do the underside of the furniture as well to ensure the wood is well oiled.

In late spring provide another coating of oil ready for the summer celebration and outdoor meals. It will also protect the timber from the bright drying sun. In really dry climates a s second summer oiling may be required in February.

Completed regularly it will be easy to do and give great results.

Monday, May 16, 2011

Pruning Apple trees for more fruit

Apples flower and fruit on spurs. Spurs are short multi branching stems along the main branches and pruning should  be undertaken to develop, enhance or replace these spurs.

There are two main structures of apple trees. Vase shaped where upright branches are trained in a V formation  and spurs are developed along these upright branches. Espalier and centre leader trees both have a vertical trunk and the side branches are trained and tied down to grow horizontally to produce fruiting spurs. 

Also the lower in the tree spurs are produced the easier it is to tend the fruit and to pick it

Knowing the style of tree being pruned is important to enable fruiting spurs to be encouraged where required and to remove unwanted branches.

In all pruning start by examining the structure of the tree and identify any new branches that should be kept to improve the style and structure of the tree. Tie these into place.

Once the structure is sorted then the removal of unwanted branches can begin. Shorten them back to at least one third of their length.

When pruning branchlets on a fruiting spur cut back to about one third so that the spur will continue to develop. On older spurs look at the possibility of removing some very old wood which can be replaced by new young growth.

Remove all the unwanted material from the tree. If this material is diseased burn it or send it away in the green recycling bin.

Gardeners should be able to recognized the difference between flowering buds on an apple tree and non flowering buds. Flowering buds are fatter and rounder and are usually at the end of a short spur. Keep as many of the flowering buds as possible.

Always use sharp secateurs and for larger branches a sharp saw.

Sunday, May 15, 2011

500 year old grape vine recovers

A 500 year old grapevine that was cut back by vandalism has sent out some new shoots. When cut back it was not expected to live. This vine is a great grandparent of the popular variety Gruner Veltliner a white grape which is a particularly good food wine. It is being experimented with in NZ currently as a grape producer for wine production.

Check out a little more about this variety on Wikipedia at http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Gr%C3%BCner_Veltliner

Trees for Bees




The honey bee is one of the world’s hardest workers. In NZ bees about $3billion of GDP is directly attributable to the intensive pollination of horticultural and agricultural crops. They also contribute indirectly by pollinating clover which is ten sown into our farm land to grow better fodder for animal food.

Of all the food we eat about one third of the calories and three quarters of our biodiversity rely on bees for pollination.

Throughout the world bees are in trouble. Bees are being attacked by pests (e.g . varroa mite) and diseases. Also many of the traditional flowers from which bees collect pollen and nectar are in decline.

One constructive way to help bees is to plant a variety of trees and shrubs that provide food for the bees.

Below are two lists of plants, shrubs and trees suitable for South Island conditions here in New Zealand. The first is a list on NZ native plants and the second is imported plants. There are different sized and shaped plants for different situations. Choose some to plant at your place in or other public or private areas.

Native plants are the best choice to increase native biodiversity and benefit both the honey bee and the environment.  
Cabbage tree (Cordyline australis) --- Tree, 15m, Oct-Dec
Five-finger (Pseudopanax arboreus) --- Tree, 8m, Jun-Aug
Hebe  (Hebe spp.  e.g., gracillima) --- Shrubs
Horoeka (Pseudopanax crassifolius) --- Tree, -6m 
Kānuka (Kunzea ericoides) --- Tree/Shrub, 15m, Sep-Feb
Karangū (Coprosma lucida) --- Tree/Shrub, 4m
Kohuhu (Pittosporum tenuifolium) --- Tree, 6m, Oct-Jan
Koromiko (Hebe salicifolia) --- Shrub, 3m, Jan-Feb-(Apr)
Lemonwood (Pittosporum eugenioides) --- Tree, 10m, Oct-Dec
Manuka (Leptospermum scoparium) - Tree/Shrub, 5m, Sep-Mar
Matagouri (Discaria toumatou) --- Tree/Shrub, 5m, Oct-Jan
Narrow-lv lacebark (Hoheria angustifolia) --- Tree, 10m, Dec-Mar
NZ flax (Phormium tenax) --- Tufted, up to 5m flw. stalk, Nov-Dec
Ngaio (Myoporum laetum) --- Tree/Shrub, 8m, Jul-Apr
North Island broom (Carmichaelia australis) --- Shrub, 2m, Oct-Feb
Pink tree broom (Carmichaelia glabrescens) --- Shrub, 3m, Dec
Scented broom (Carmichaelia odorata) --- Shrub, 3m
South Island broom (Carmichaelia arborea) --- Tree/Shrub, 3m
Sth. Rata (Metrosideros umbellata) --- Tree/Shrub, 15m, Nov-Jan
Tree fuchsia (Fuchsia excorticata) --- Tree/Shrub, 12m, Jun-Jan
Weeping kowhai (Sophora microphylla) --- Tree, 10m

Exotic plants are good choices because many are multi-purpose and have excellent pollen and nectar.
Apple (Malus ×domestica) --- Tree, Sep-Nov
Bottlebrush (Callistemon splendens) --- Shrub, 2m, Oct
Grevillea (Grevillea spp. e.g., ‘Clearview David’, or ‘Victoria’)
Horse chestnut (Aesculus hippocastanum) - Tree, 36m,Oct-Nov
Lavender (Lavandula stoechas) --- Shrub, 1m, Sept-Dec
Pear (Pyrus communis) --- Tree, Sep-Oct
Rosemary (Rosmarinus officinalis) --- Shrub, 1.5m, Sep-Nov
Tree lucerne (Chamaecytisus palmensis) Tree, 5m, May-Oct
Blue gum (Eucalyptus globulus) --- Tree, 40m, Sept-Dec
Ribbon gum (Eucalyptus viminalis) --- Tree, 40m, Jul-Apr
Silver dollar gum (Eucalyptus cinerea) --- Tree, 15m, Dec-Feb
Snow gum (E. pauciflora subsp. niphophila) --- Tree, 18m, Sep-Nov
Swamp peppermint (Eucalyptus rodwayi) --- Tree, 15m, Mar-Jun
White ironbark (Eucalyptus leucoxylon) --- Tree, 30m, Mar-Nov
Yellow box (Eucalyptus melliodora) --- Tree, 30m, Dec-Feb
Weeping Willow (Salix babylonica) --- Tree, 25m, Aug-Sep

Material for this article was taken from Federated farmers brochures and website.