"The Art and Science of Gardening", Gardens, Horticulture, Plants, Garden History, Conservation, Garden Tourism.
Saturday, January 9, 2010
Garden Tourism
I have just found this page and it will be worth exploring this site furter in the next few days.
Thursday, January 7, 2010
Weigela - Apple Blossom
The genus Weigela was named for C.E. Von Weigel, a German professor. There are about 10 species of shrubs from eastern Asia in the genus. All are deciduous and easily grown.
The Chinese species are all attractive and many have been hybridised to produce a range of improved hybrids and cultivars to such an extent there are few wild or original plants left. Assigning species names to the cultivars has been difficult and often these are now left out of the name as it can be confusing for gardeners.
Weigelas are often called flowering apple blossoms because of there extremely free flowering in spring and their adaptability to a wide range of garden conditions. The trumpet shaped flowers have a wide open mouth showing of some detailed marking inside the flower. Usually the flowers are up to 35 mm long and about 25 mm wide. Colours vary from pure white to dark rosy pinks and deep reds. They grow up to 2 metres high.
Regular pruning out of old wood after flowering in late spring will keep it vigorous and healthy.
Weigela florida is one of the few species encountered in gardens these days. The flowers are almost white when open but fade to a pale pink as they age. There are two cultivars to compliment the species Weigela florida 'Aurea Variegata' which has green foliage with an edge of yellow and a silvery companion named Weigela florida 'Argentea Variegata'. A purple leafed form also exists called Weigela florida 'Foliis Purpurea'.
Other forms of Weigela that may be spotted in gardens include
Weigela 'Candida' best pure white.
Weigela 'Cardinal' bright red
Weigela 'Amabilis' light pink
Tuesday, January 5, 2010
Cyathea dealbata – Ponga, Silver tree fern
This is the most easily recognised ferns in New Zealand because of its distinctive bright silvery underside to the fronds. On young plants the undersides have not developed this silvery colour as it takes several years for it to develop. Once the colouration has started each new frond becomes more silvery until all the fronds are typical of the species.
Every New Zealander should know this fern. To identify the Silver Fern all you need to do is turn the frond over. The other major problem is that people call it punga. This is incorrect and it is Ponga. Punga is a misused word as it does not apply to any fern in New Zealand at all although people tend to use it for all tree ferns.
As it is also our National Emblem we should all get it right and correct those who get it wrong.
It is a beautiful tree fern quite hardy but susceptible to some wind damage in exposed places. In nature it grows in dryer bush areas enabling it to adapt todryer gardens without a problem. As a slower growing tree fern it takes some time to attain a good size but that can be an advantage in the home garden.
In nature it can grow up to 9 metres high albeit very slowly and with a relatively narrow stem. Old fronds tend to hang down from beneath the colourful fronds as a protective skirt.
It is easy to grow in the garden and for those with kiwi pride it makes a nice feature plant.
• It is a logo for many other organisations, such as (heavily stylised) the rail infrastructure owner OnTrack.
Silver fern leaves appear on the coat of arms for New Zealand and the Silver Fern is also used extensively within politics and printed material use by the government. It is used extensively as a symbol for our National sports teams.
The Koru symbol (new life) found in Maori Art is inspired by the shape of the young Ponga frond.
Monday, January 4, 2010
This Month in the Garden – January
January is traditionally a warm month and holidays are being taken. It is important that the garden survives nicely on its own. Ensure it is weed free and that it is really well watered. Deep watering is essential. To ensure excellent growth apply or top up the mulch. Mulches keep the soil cool and moist as well as providing much needed nutrients.
The Vegetable Patch
· Sow crops of French beans, turnips, lettuce, radish, silver beet, spinach, kohl rabi, carrots and swedes.
· Lift early potatoes and use for your summer meals.
· Mulch runner beans with compost.
· Plant brussel sprouts, cabbage, broccoli, kale, silver beet and late celery, use lots of compost.
· Marrows and pumpkins will be sending out flowers. Remember they have male and female flowers.
· Onions, garlic and shallots should be lifted when the tips go yellow. The bulbs must be dried to ensure good storage for later use.
· Asparagus. Stop cutting shoots and let them grow so the roots store energy for the next crop.
· Rhubarb should not be harvested after Christmas. Remove flower spikes and seed heads to encourage good root growth.
· Outdoor tomatoes. Ensure they are staked and tied to prevent them falling over. Control chewing insects. Remove side shoots (laterals) and any old yellowing leaves at the base. Apply a balanced fertiliser. Keep up a good regular watering cycle that will ensure even growth and ripening of tomatoes. This will also prevent the fruit splitting and the onset of blossom end rot.
· Courgettes / Zucchinis. Harvest daily to ensure a continuous crop.
Lawns
· Mow regularly. Remove lawn weeds as they appear or spray with lawn weed killer.
Conservatory and Indoor Plants
· Begonias. Take care of these tender plants ensuring even temperature, good soil, good drainage, light shade and frequent watering with liquid fertiliser.
· Ensure all indoor plants are well watered. Provide nutrients by either liquid or pellets.
The Ornamental Garden
· Summer pruning of a range of flowering shrubs should be done now. Remove the branches and shoots but leave a nice framework for the shrub.
· Sow seeds for winter annual display. Wallflowers, stock, polyanthus, pansies and violas.
· Trim hedges.
· Take cuttings of a variety of shrubs and semi shrubs and place in sharp sand undercover.
· Mulch the flower garden if there is insufficient mulch on the ground.
· Remove dead heads from roses. Prune back to the first 5 leaflet leaf. Spray for pest and diseases.
· Train climbing roses by tying new canes into position and remove canes not required.
· Remove dead heads from all flowering plants and shrubs.
· Lift spring flowering bulbs and replant in an appropriate place for next year.
· Climbers. Ensure these are trained throughout summer. It is easier to do now when the stems are soft and supple rather than when they are hard and woody and likely.
· Perennials. If required ensure they are staked and tied up.
· Control thrips and red mite on a variety of plants.
Fruit.
· Black currants should be picked and prune out very old branches as they fruit on new wood.
· Red currents should be picked, remember they flower on the old wood.
Glasshouse
· Tomatoes need to be tied up each week. Remove and side shoots (laterals) and older yellowing bottom leaves.
· Early ripe fruit will appear, pick it while it is firm.
· Regular watering is essential for good growth and reduction in Blossom End rot.
· Capsicums also require lots of water on a regular basis.
· Control chewing insects on each crop.
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