Gentiana acaulis

This is regarded as one of the worlds most spectacular alpine plants. It is one of 400 species of Gentian. The genus is found in many countries of the world including New Zealand.

Gentian acaulis is native of Europe where it has been well know for 100's of years.

It is the best known and loved of the gentians and in th garden can be used in a rock garden or at the front of a border. Its neat compact tufted clusters of dark green leaves makes it an attractive plant all year round. In early spring signs of large trumpet shaped flowers can be seen emerging from the foliage. These long sharp ended sausage shaped buds soon open to produce a wide mouthed trumpet shaped rich deep blue flower of exquisite quality. The interior markings are to be seen to be believed.

To really grow successfully plant it in a sunny or even very sunny spot on the gardem as long as it has a long, deep root run. If it is not happy in its situation it will not flower.

Overseas a number of forms have been selected and they include gentiana acaulis 'Alba', 'Alpina', 'Azura', and 'Gigantea'

HELEBORUS Winter Rose

One of the most interesting and popular plants for Winter colour is the Heleborus or Lenton Rose.

The most commonly growing one is Helibrium Orientalis, the Lenton Rose.

It is a native of NE Greece, European Turkey, and Soviet Georgia at up to 2200m altitude.

It's natural habitat is in scrub and at the edges of woods and forests. There are a number of variations which are often found in the wild.

In recent years both in New Zealand and overseas plant breeding programmes have created new and named cultures of beautiful plants.

Flowering in later in Winter they send upright stems up through the old leaves. The slightly nodding flowers open to show beautiful markings and interesting stamen patterns.

They set seed rapidly and the bet way to gather them is to let the seed fall to the ground and germinate beside the parent plant. You can shift the young plants the next year.


Winter rose

Winter roses (hellebores) bring a delicate splash of colour when there is not much else in bloom. They look wonderful planted en masse under trees for a wintry woodland effect, and will flower from June until November.

They are notable for their nodding flowers and unusually delicate colours; perhaps the most familiar is Helleborus orientalis. But there are others with interesting flowers and leaves, such as the tender H. lividus, which has green flowers streaked with purple. Plant-breeding programmes here and overseas have produced new cultures of beautiful plants.

They set seed rapidly and the best way to gather them is to let the seed fall to the ground and germinate beside the parent plant. You can move the young plants the following year. (Note: all parts of the plant are poisonous.)


Helleborus

As well as for their most welcome late-winter or very-early-spring flowers, hellebores are rapidly gaining in popularity among discerning gardeners for their handsome, mostly evergreen foliage.

Hellebores bloom in winter and early spring when cool days keep flowers fresh over an extended period. The inconspicuous petals and stamens drop as the temperatures rise, but the sepals that form the bell remain attractive into late spring. The softly colored bells are either green, white or various shades of dark red to plum. Some have spots inside the bells and others are rimmed in maroon. All are borne above leathery foliage on plants 60cm high.

Hellebores thrive in lightly or partly shaded places, where the soil has been thoroughly prepared with an abundance of organic material. Because the roots resent disturbance, prepare soil thoroughly with an plenty of organic material before planting in spring or autumn. Maintain high fertility with an annual dressing of compost or well-rotted manure each fall and a light spring application of fertilizer. Cut back any leaves damaged by winter weather. New foliage will appear. Deep, frequent watering is necessary in dry weather.

If you must divide the plants to build stock, this is best done just after flowering, but otherwise do not disturb them. H. orientalis, in particular, hybridizes and self-seeds quite freely; it is fun to grow seedlings on your own, but only fresh seeds will germinate readily.

All parts of hellebores are poisonous to humans and animals.

Helleborus orientalis (Lenten rose) is easier to grow than H. niger and usually blooms a little later, with small clusters of cup-shaped, nodding flowers ranging from white, often speckled with maroon, to pale green, through pink to purple. Growing to 60cm tall, it is hardy and is not heat-tolerant.

Helleborus argutifolius [H. corsicus] (spiny-toothed hellebore) has nodding clusters of pale green bells above spiny-edged dark leathery leaves. These coarse-textured plants are bulky and grow to 60cm tall. They are short-lived but often self-seed.

Helleborus foetidus (stinking hellebore) is similar to H. argutifolius in height and shape. The green flowers have maroon rims and the dark leaves are divided into long narrow leaflets. Both species bloom in late winter or spring.

Helleborus niger (Christmas rose), somewhat temperamental, is the best known species. It has cup-shaped, nodding flowers opening pure white and turning blush pink, blooming in late winter to early spring. The dark foliage is evergreen, and the plant grows to 20 - 30cm high.

Pseudopanax lanceolata

Lancewood, horoeka

Everyone in New Zealand can recognise the Lancewood tree in the early stages of its life. The narrow, toothed downward pointing leaves are distinctive. The adult tree is less readily identified yet makes an interesting small tree for the garden and it is particularly good for ultra small gardens or makes continental style landscapes.

The Lancewood actually goes through four stages of growth – two juvenile stages an intermediate stage and the adult stage. The first stage is the seedling stage, when the leaves are rounded or have very deeply toothed leaves. Very quickly the seedling passes into the popular second stage. The long lanceolate leaves can be up to 90 cm long and only 2cm wide. The leaves are rigid, leathery and a dark olive green colour with an obvious orange or yellow mid rib. The third or intermediate stage is when the main stem starts branching and the new leaves become shorter and erect rather than downward pointing. The fourth stage is when the tree forms a round bushy head. Metcalf (1987) suggests it takes up to 15 years to grow from seedling to mature tree. This might be true in nature but in good garden conditions 10 years would be more accurate.

Apart from the leaves the single narrow trunk is interesting with its wavelike bark structure is different from the smooth round trunks of other trees. As it fully matures all the juvenile leaves fall off leaving a small round headed tree ideal for all gardens. Some excellent examples can be found in the herb garden in the Christchurch Botanic Gardens.

The flowers and fruit are insignificant in the overall aesthetics of the tree. They appear in small umbels and individual flowers have no petals. The fruit is about the size and colour of a small black olive.

Over the years nurserymen and plant breeders have hybridised P. crassifolius with P. arboreus to produce a range of attractive hybrids. Sometimes these are offered as a group of hybrids through selected forms are propagated by cuttings and sold as a named Cultivar.

This exotic looking tree is unusual in the world of plants and has taken a special place in many gardens because of its juvenile foliage. However it is also a very good landscape plant in its adult form as well.

The name Pseudopanax is derived from two words ‘pseudo’ meaning false meaning ‘not a tree’ panax. It belongs to the family Araliaceae and is related to a range of foliage plants used in conservatories and in gardens.

June in the Garden

June is an interesting month with the winters shortest day occurring on or about 21 June, yet June is not generally the coldest month. Continue to plant out new trees and shrubs in their new locations. It is a good tome to transplant larger specimens to new locations in the garden.

Take some time to do some winter reading and enjoy the indoor garden

Vegetables
Lift, split and replant rhubarb with lots of compost.
Sow Broad beans in well prepared ground.
Sow Onions
Continue to plant small quantities of cabbage, cauliflower, shallots and leeks.
Protect Broccoli curds by breaking their leaves and bending them over the curds.
Prepare potatoes for sprouting prior to planting.
Dig in green crops when they reach 150mm high.
Plan crop rotations for your garden.
Plant strawberries on ridges covered with polythene film.

Flower Garden
Lift perennials, divide, replant only the vigorous shoots
Prune roses, hydrangeas and shrubs
Propagate plants from hardwood cuttings.
Plant new plants – make sure the hole is wide enough and it is deep enough to create good drainage.
Plant out pansies and violas.
Place sand or dry mulch over the top of tender deciduous perennials to stop them rotting in winter and to mark their place in the garden.
Prune wisteria – the long growths are pruned back to within 2-3 buds of the main stem. This will help them produce flowering spurs.

Fruit
Prune fruit trees
Prune fruit bushes - currents, gooseberries etc
After pruning spray with all seasons spraying oil to control a large range of pests and diseases. Its environmentally friendly as well.

Indoor Plants
Shift pot plants away from windows to reduce the chance of them being frosted through the glass on cold nights.
Home heating and dehumidifyiers dry out the atmosphere and reduces humidity so watch plants carefully and water when dry.
Cyclamen prefer cooler conditions for best foliage and flowering in winter, do not keep them in a hot place.